Riomaggiore savoury rice pie

Rice pie is a traditional recipe found throughout Liguria and the Riviera di Levante, with variations that change from village to village—and often from family to family. In Riomaggiore, however, it holds a special connection to the Feast of San Giovanni Battista, the village’s patron saint, celebrated on June 24th.

This simple, savoury pie relies on rice and just a few other ingredients. Typically served in slices, it is equally delicious enjoyed cold. It is not a dish for formal occasions, but rather a comforting home recipe—the kind prepared by habit, by eye, and by remembering how it has always been made.

During the patron saint’s festival, the rice pie becomes the star of a much-loved local competition. Families bake their own versions, hand them over to the jury, and eagerly await the verdict. Then, as always happens with deeply personal recipes, the friendly debates begin: some prefer it softer, others more compact; some look for a perfectly golden crust, while others instantly recognize the flavor of a pie “from the old days.”

This is the true beauty of tradition: not a single, identical recipe for everyone, but countless family versions, each with its own balance and small secrets. In Riomaggiore, rice pie also reveals a lesser-known side of the village. Beyond the sea, the colorful houses, and the small harbor lies a history of vegetable gardens, vineyards, and terraces—an everyday cuisine made from simple ingredients meant to be shared.

When to taste it

The most meaningful moment is the feast of San Giovanni Battista, in June. Outside this celebration, you may sometimes find it in bakeries, delis or local food shops in the area.